Archiver > BURGENLAND-NEWSLETTER > 1999-07 > 0931175866

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Subject: [BURGENLAND-NEWSLETTER-L] BB News No. 39B dtd 15 July 1998 (edited)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1999 07:57:46 EDT

(issued biweekly by )
July 15, 1998
(all rights reserved)

This third section of newsletter 39, featuring food, has articles concerning
Gourmet Magazine, Metric Conversions, an Austrian Cookbook From Chicago,
Burgenlndische Gemeinschaft Recipes, and The Taste of Hungary, (see BB News
No.-14A for more Burgenland food lore plus a list of cook books). It also
contains Wolf Family History and a Short Jabbing Trip Report.

One of our members reminded me that Burgenland had been featured in an old
issue of "Gourmet Magazine". Having subscribed to this publication for many
years I was certain that I would have retained a copy. Sure enough I found
it. It contains pictures of a stork nest at Rust, the Quarry of St.
Margarethen, the interior of the church at Frauenkirchen, Hotel Schloss
Drassburg, pottery at Stoob, wine cellars in Purbach, and Gssing castle
among others. It features a number of recipes including leek soup, gulyas,
and palatschinken. It mentions Gssinger Mineralwasser (from Sulz) which is
achieving some renown now that it is being served on Austrian Airlines. Good
friend Conrad Christianson brought me two small bottles the other day that he
brought back from a recent trip to Europe. Hotel Burg Bernstein is also
mentioned. If you remember, Bob Unger stayed there on his recent trip and
described it in a previous newsletter.

Lillian Langseth-Christensen (recently deceased), who wrote the Gourmet
article was one of my favorite travel-food writers. Her works are worth
seeking and cover much of what is still considered old Europe. Perhaps your
local library has a copy of this old Gourmet Magazine. She also wrote
"Gourmet's Old Vienna Cookbook-A Viennese Memoir", first printed in 1959 by
Gourmet Books. If you can find one, buy it at any price. The recipes,
drawings, pictures and prose are priceless even though some of the recipes
start "early in the morning", or "the day before", etc.-not recipes for the
quick or faint hearted but it has all the food of old Vienna. My wife can
occasionally be prevailed upon to do some of the less labor intensive ones.
The Linzer Tort is a great holiday favorite.

Anna writes; "Some time ago I received a wonderful recipe for lentil soup
from Erich and Margit Kumbusch (see previous newsletter) and some of the
ingredients were in metric. Since then I have found the Twin Peaks Gourmet
Trading Post online recipe conversion calculator which converts measurements
either way. It converts: liters, milliliters, quarts, pints, cups,
tablespoons, teaspoons, grams, pounds, ounces.
Grams were converted to both total pounds and total ounces; liters were
converted to all of these -- teaspoons, tablespoons, cups, pints, quarts, and
milliliters. It does a great job." (Ed. Now all we need is a converter for
some of our grandmothers' recipes which start "make a dough" or "take a
piece of butter")

Member Tom Glatz recently sent me a copy of "Austrian Kitchens Around
Chicago-Compiled by Jolly Burgenlander Social Club". Unfortunately out of
print, what is interesting are the regional variations in what we consider
"Burgenland" food. How often have you tried to duplicate a favorite recipe
from your ancestor and it just doesn't taste the same but you settle for
second best and your children love it and in turn pass it on as an original.
Variations on a theme as ingredient availability or taste changes. There's a
recipe for "Quick Apple Strudel" from the cook book that I must try. My wife
says "there is no such thing!" She also says "none of these things are good
for you". I respond by mentioning that my grandmother Sorger reached age 93
eating this food!

The May/June 1998 edition of the BG news contains an article celebrating the
75th birthday of Alois Schmidl, born near Mattersburg. He is a chef of some
renown having worked in various posh places including the Hotel Bristol in
Vienna and the Prince Esterhazy Palace Tavern in Eisenstadt. In 1992, he
wrote "The Cooking of Burgenland" which was translated by Bobby Strauch from
Allentown (whose material frequently comes to us through his friend and our
member Tom Glatz). Strauch's translations have been featured in the
"Kochrezepte" column of the BG news ever since. My favorite has long been the
recipe for "Goulash Suppe" (try reducing the caraway seed and increasing the
paprika). The book may still be available from the BG.

Tom writes: "As I have often said, there are some advantages to living
amongst the immigrants! I went to the BG meeting here again last night. The
food was something. You would have been in Burgenland cuisine heaven! They
had 3 different kinds of Kuchen. Then a German woman (married to the
Burgenland treasurer Billisits from Drnbach) made a wonderful type of Apfel
Kuchen. I never had anything like it before. I brought Mohn (poppy seed)
Strudel from a bakery that was originally owned by Donauschwaben. It isn't
nearly as good as home made or what our famous baker Urbauer from Markt
Allhau made. But it isn't bad. Maria Funovits (wife of famous haircutter
Franz Funovits whose picture is in Dr. Walter Dujmovit's book) made Kraut
Salat & Grundbirne Salat. I am sure you know what these are. She probably
used Kernl (pumpkin seed oil) for these. It is always hard for us to
duplicate that special taste here unless we use it. (Ed.-pumpkin seed oil is
available from "The Austrian Store", 8581 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 138, West
Hollywood, CA 90069-4120) @ $10 per 250ml bottle. See website
www.austrianstore.com). I use the recipe in the book I sent you for basic
salad dressing. Page 16. I will use it tomorrow for potato salad. (I am
cooking out- 3 different kinds of Wurst from Usinger's sausage shop in
Milwaukee). It isn't at all Burgenland. It uses cider vinegar. I also use
olive oil. It is healthier than other oils. Bob Strauch always manages to get
some Kernoel from someone returning from Austria. I am lucky in Chicago that
we still have some of these nice traditions. I talked about food with Hermine
Volkovits (Jabing). She makes wonderful Nussbitter. Have you ever had it? I
have a recipe that I will attach. I don't know how exact it is. It was one of
her recipes (you know how it is) that she never put into writing or into our
system of measure. My mother was always a wonderful baker & wanted her
recipe, but never ventured to make it. We had it when we were both in Austria
once at a relative's house. Then Minnie made it for us once. Notice the funny
measurements! We did the best we could to convert to our system. It is not an
easy recipe to make. My mother thinks it is easier with two people beating
the eggs for the 2 sections. It is my most favorite Burgenland Milchspeise!
The next best thing is the Nuss Schnitten on page 74 if you are into baking.
It is a lot easier. I have also had this several times at our meetings." (Tom
then goes on to tell me that he he can't eat as much of these good things as
he'd like because of health concerns-I hope this is only temporary!)

Basic Salad Dressing (from Jolly Burgenlander Social Club-A. Halper)
1c. oil (try to use pumpkin seed), 2c. sugar, 3c. vinegar, 3 tsp. salt, 2
tsp. oregano, 1 tsp. pepper, 1 tsp. garlic powder or fresh to taste. Beat
oil, sugar and vinegar and mix thoroughly. Add other ingrediants and pour
into quart jar. Cover and refrigerate. Shake well before using. Use for
cucumber, beans, cole slaw or potato salad.

Nuss Schnitten (from Jolly Burgenlander Social Club-M. Fandl)
1 stick butter, 2 c. flour, 3/4 c. sugar, 1/2 tsp. baking powder, 4 egg
yolks, 1 c. powdered sugar, 1/2 lb. walnuts, 4 egg whites, jam to cover
(raspberry or apricot are nice). Mix butter, sugar and egg yolks. Add baking
powder and flour. Spread in greased and floured 9x12 inch pan. Beat egg
whites, gradually adding powdered sugar and nuts. Spread jam over dough and
then the nut mixture. Bake at 325 degrees until done.

Nussbitter (from Tom Glatz)
1st Layer
6 3/8 oz Butter9 Egg Yolks1 tsp Baking Powder
7 1/2 oz Sugar1/2 Lemon and Rind
6 3/8 oz Flour1/4 tsp Vanilla
Grease bottom of 15 x 10 glass pan, beat butter with sugar, add egg yolks
one at a time, mix in lemon and grated lemon rind, add vanilla, fold in
baking powder and flour

2nd Layer
One can of Solo Brand apricot filling (ED.-this is made from apricots, sugar
and corn syrup-it's very good but could probably be duplicated by boiling
dried apricots in water with sugar to taste or even using apricot preserves;
I often use Solo Brand Poppy Seed and Nut fillings and like them very much, a
little too sweet but can be cut with bread or cake crumbs). Spread the
apricot filling over top of first layer.

3rd Layer
9 egg whitesdash of rum(+ a shot for the cook!) 1/2
tsp. cream of tartar
6 3/8 oz sugar 1 1/2 tsp. Cocoa 14 oz ground walnuts
Beat egg whites and cream of tartar, add sugar slowly, add nuts rum and
cocoa. Spread over top. Bake 30-35 minutes at 350 degrees. Test with knife,
should come out clean when done.

In reading a history of Hungarian cuisine recently (The Cuisine of Hungary,
George Lang, Bonanza Books, 1971), I found the comment "somewhere along the
line the Hungarians hit on the holy trinity of lard, onion (include garlic)
and paprika. This simple combination became the base of virtually unlimited
taste combinations." Now we know that lard is no longer considered healthy
(also hard to find) and to those not brought up on it, sometimes too powerful
in flavor, so we must substitute from the many other fats available (and not
too much of them) if we wish to stay healthy. Onion and garlic on the other
hand are well known as health foods and paprika is full of vitamins (3 or 4
grams satisfy the daily adult requirement of vitamin A and paprika has 5 or 6
times as much vitamin C as citrus fruit plus traces of vitamins P and B). I
wonder if onion and paprika offset the dangers of lard in the diets of our
ancestors? These three items plus flour, wine and sour cream are the taste of
Hungary, which has also been incorporated in the German and Croatian kitchens
of the Burgenland. It goes without saying you must use imported Hungarian
paprika (from Szeged or Kolocsa).

Ed.-I often agonize over the fact that many of the older Burgenland
generation don't have access to computers and can't share in our email
correspondence. I do know that some members (Tom Glatz, our Chicago reporter
is one ) print them, and make copies for distribution at club meetings.
Others print them and make copies for relatives and friends. I have a cousin
who brings them to her card parties! Member John Unger just sent me the

Gerry, you write:<<Enjoy the newsletters. If I remember you pass these on to
parents or relatives. Tell them to write a little blurb sometime (any comment
or Burgenland subject)-I'll polish it for them if they don't want to agonize
over words. This is the sort of thing our members abroad enjoy, particularly
if they're from the older generations.>>
"I do pass them on to my parents who are in their eighties. My father still
doesn't believe that all this information on Burgenland is available free
from your site. He is convinced I am subscribing to some Burgenland family
search organization and "hiding" the fee I am paying from him! It's a tribute
to your extremely professional work on the newsletters and the research you
put into them. My parents pass these newsletters on to their friends who
still live in the Bronx, N.Y. area. Your newsletters are informing quite a
lot of older generation Burgenlanders who have lost "touch" due to age and
friends moving away to the suburbs with their children.

I realize that BB news is really a family tree search site, but those stories
about how life was back in Burgenland and here for the immigrants in the
early part of this century are the ones that spark the most interest from the
"old-timers". I have asked my father and mother to contribute some of their
own stories and I will send them along to you as soon as they get them down
on paper. Thank you for providing a connection back to the past for my
parents. At this stage of their lives, so much of what they experienced has
disappeared from their daily lives. Your newsletters give them what no doctor
or medicine can: a piece of their youth, if only for a short time."
Sincerely, John J. Unger

(from Edward Wolf)
Editor-I've been trying to get members to send us their family immigrant
stories as "Auswandererschicksal". So far, not much luck. New member Edward
Wolf introduces himself this way. As you can see, the story need not be
lengthy. Of added interest is the way in which the family name was changed.
How many Wolf's are there who may have had the Hungarian name for "wolf" as
"farkas"? Also included is a brief recent trip report. A great application
for membership!

" Hi Gerry, Thanks so much for your prompt reply. I do want to be included
on your mailing list and I will do my best to inform you of things occurring
in the Burgenlander Community in Northern Illinois. My wife, Sharon and I
are currently members of the Burgenlander Gemeinshaft and the Burgenlander
Social Club. Following is a paragraph of information as you requested:

Edward Wolf: () Frankfort, Illinois. FARKAS, WOLF, GOGER.
Father, Adolf Wolf migrated from Jabbing to Chicago soon after WWI. Area was
then part of Austro-Hungarian Empire and family name was Farkas. Upon
arriving immigration officials informed the family that in America their name
was WOLF. Also coming to America at that time was father's parents, Josef
and Theresa and their other children, Justine, Frank, Josef and Fritz. No
known family remains in Jabbing and family home is no longer standing. JOHN
GOGER migrated from Wolfau in the 1923; he went to school in Markt Alhau. He
was unable to obtain an entry permit at that time and he lived in Kitchner,
Ontario and Bashaw, Alberta, Canada. In 1928 he came to America and settled
in Chicago, where he continued his trade as a butcher. He passed away in
l977. A nephew, BERNHARD GOGER and his family remain in Kemeten. He has
worked for The Sudberg Bus Company for 25 years."

"Talked to you on e-mail a couple months ago. Do you have a regular hot-line
that goes out to your list of people? If so I sure would like to be
included. I enjoy hearing about my Dad's homeland. You might recall I told
you he was born in Jabbing. Anyway, family just got back from trip to Germany
and Austria. First time for my son. He really enjoyed it. My wife still
has one cousin out there. We stayed with them for a few days. His name is
Bernhard Goger and he and his family live in Kemeten (Burgenland). He drives
a bus for The Suedburg Bus Company. They drove us around and we visited many
towns we hadn't seen in the last 20 years. They had a nice festival in Markt
Alhau on a Sunday with "dorf music' which I really enjoyed. Visited a
Gasthof named "Stumpfels" in Alhau. We stayed there in 1978 when we were
there last. All remodeled now; very nice. They were all so friendly to us.
Many of the old timers still remember my wife's dad, John Goger. Much
building and remodeling going on. Burgenland is really coming of age. They
said out there that Burgenland is the last to bring things up to date. We
took a ride one day and visited the small vineyards down near the Hungarian
border and tasted some really great wine; down near Gaas. Hope things are
going well for you and your Burgenland Bunch. Sincerely, Ed Wolf."

MORE ON TOBAJ (I knew Anna's story about Tobaj meaning "mercy" was too good
to be true!)
Dear Anna and Gerry: If I may add a little more information on the name of
Tobaj, Arnold Magyar, O.F.M. in his 340 Jahre Franziskaner in Gu"ssing [340
Years of the Franciscans in Gu"ssing] (p. 197) states that the village name
was originally Thobayd (1428) and had evolved to Thobaj by 1538. Bob Schatz

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