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Subject: Ia-Polk Co. History (Town and Country)
Date: 9 Apr 2006 20:12:51 -0000
Polk County IA Archives History - Books .....Town And Country In The Forties 1898
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Book Title: Annals Of Polk County, Iowa And City Of Des Moines
CHAPTER VIII.
TOWN AND COUNTY IN THE FORTIES.
THE map drawn at the United States War Department, and published in this
volume, shows the location of the fort, buildings, stables, hospital, etc. The
buildings in which the soldiers were quartered, were mostly built of logs, and
were what are known as double log cabins. That is, two cabins built closely
together, with a roof extending over the vacant space between, the latter
forming a kind of court useful for the storing of numerous articles. There were
some twenty-five of these buildings or barracks. The flag-staff of the fort was
near the corner of Second and Market streets as now laid out. The fort buildings
facing along the Des Moines River towards the north and along the Raccoon River
to the west, the towering flag-staff stood about mid-way between the sides of
the triangle. This staff or pole was cut down not long after the soldiers left.
While the troops were here no white person was allowed to settle in the town
or county, without special permission from the commandant of the post, and they
had generally some connection with the troops or with the licensed traders.
Hence at first, the civilians or settlers were very few in number. In fact,
outside of the soldiers, those in and about the future city can be easily
enumerated. There were Major Beach, the Indian agent, and his interpreter,
Joseph Smart; the Indian traders, G. W. and W. G. Ewing, and their few clerks,
among them being Benjamin Bryant; the fur traders, Phelps & Co., and their few
clerks; J. B. Scott, W. A. Scott, Alexander Turner and William Lamb, who had
contracted to furnish corn, hay, etc., for the garrison; Charles Worthington and
one Baker, government blacksmiths; Joseph M. Thrift was the tailor and James
Drake and John Sturdevant, the gunsmiths. There were also Robert A. Kinsey, the
sutler for the troops, and the surgeon, Dr. Griffin. The troops, numbering about
one hundred, more or less, and a few of the above named, were in or near the
fort on the west side, while the agency, the farmers and others were located on
the east side of the Des Moines River, while the gardens of the troops were
south of the Raccoon. Such was Fort Des Moines in 1843. South and east of it,
some seventy-five miles on the river, was Eddyville, which was settled in June
of that year, and had at the close of the year probably one dozen families.
Ottumwa was founded about the same time and had at the end of the year more
civilized inhabitants than Fort Des Moines. There may have been a few settlers
in or about Red Rock, but from the Raccoon Forks to Eddyville it was an
unoccupied country, while there were no settlers whatever to the north.
This was the condition of Des Moines and of the county of Polk in 1843, and
this continued virtually to be the condition of the town and county until the
summer and fall of 1845.
Peter Newcomer came with the troops to the Fort, and in the spring of 1843
obtained permission of Captain Allen to take and improve a claim, which he
finally located on the river at Newcomer's Point, a few miles cast. He, in
consideration of this privilege, built a bridge across Four Mile Creek, which
was needed by the garrison, Henry B. Mitchell and Thomas Mitchell, brothers, in
April, 1844, made a claim, by permission, on Camp Creek, and commenced a
settlement. In April, 1845, John B. Saylor settled on the east side of the
river, near the present site of Saylorville, made a claim, and had a beef and
hay contract for furnishing the troops. He made the first settlement in the Des
Moines valley north of the city. An unmarried man by the name of G. B. Clark, in
1844, was permitted to make a claim in what is now Allen township, and there
built two cabins. He was drowned a year or two afterward in the river, near
Newcomer's Point. Isaac Cooper, a former well known citizen, settled on Four
Mile in August, 1845. John D. Parmelee settled near the present town of
Carlisle, now in Warren county, in 1843, and in connection with Captain Allen,
operated the first saw mill, and in the following year the first grist mill, in
this section. Dr. Thomas K. Brooks came in 1845, a short time previous to the
removal of the troops. William F. Avers was also here at that time. William
Mason, afterward for many years a citizen of Warren county, made shingles for
the Fort buildings, and afterwards assisted in erecting the Parmelee mill.
October 11, 1845, was the date fixed when the Indian occupancy of these lands
was to expire, and the fame of their beauty, extent and fertility had spread
east and south into other states, and many home-hunters made their arrangements
for settling upon and securing for their own use a portion of these rich lands.
For a few months previous to this date the strict military rules and regulations
had been rightfully relaxed, and there were hundreds of men from the outside
prospecting through the county and making note of choice locations. However, as
the final day approached, the excitement became intense. All those so deeply
interested proceeded to or near the place where their selection had been made so
as to be ready to mark out their claim at the earliest possible moment. Under
the law each man could claim any amount of land not exceeding one-half section,
or three hundred and twenty acres, and could enter the same at the United States
land office when surveyed and offered for sale for $1.25 per acre in gold or
silver, or with military bounty land warrants. H. B. Turrill in his brief work
entitled "Historical Reminiscenees of Des Moines," says of this time:
"Long before the expiration of the Indian title the settlers around the Fort
had made arrangements with each other, and the valuable tracts were already
considered claims. Some claims were even measured and staked off, but this was
of no validity, and done only for convenience or to facilitate such subsequent
survey as was absolutely necessary to establish and identify it. So eager were
the settlers, who had previously remained only at the sufferance of the general
government, to have homes near the Fort, that during the fore part of the night
preceding October 11, 1845, men were stationed in all directions around with
instructions to begin the measurement of claims as soon as midnight arrived.
"Precisely at midnight the loud report of a musket, fired at the agency
house, announced that the empire of the red man had ended forever and that of
his master race had begun. Answering reports rang out upon the night air in
quick succession from every hill top and in every valley, till the signal was
conveyed for miles around, and all understood that civilization had now
commenced her reign in central Iowa. The moon was slowly sinking in the west and
its beams afforded a feeble and uncertain light for the measurement of claims in
which so many were engaged. Ere long the landscape was shrouded in darkness,
save the wild and fitful glaring of the torches carried by the claim-makers.
Before the night had entirely worn away the rough surveys were finished and the
Indian hinds had found new tenants. Throughout the country thousands of acres
were laid off in claims before dawn. Settlers rushed in by hundreds, and the
region so lately tranquil and silent felt the impulse of its change and became
vocal with the sounds of industry and enterprise."
Thus, October 11, 1845, may be fixed as the date of commencement of the civil
life of the county. New settlers commenced arriving freely and taking up lands
for their homes, new settlements were commenced in different portions of the
county, and soon followed civil officials, law and order. In six months after
the military rule and Indian occupancy had ceased the county of Polk was duly
and legally organized.
The act of the Territorial Legislature creating Polk county and fixing its
boundaries was approved January 17, 1840. The territory comprising the new
county had been fully opened to white settlement only some three mouths prior to
this date, October, 1845, and only about two and one-half years after the
establishment of Fort Des Moines. Polk county, different from most of the other
new counties in the state, was not attached for a time to any other county,
though for a time the jurisdiction of Mahaska county extended over a portion of
the territory from which it was carved. It served no period of tutelage or
probation, but at once sprang into a state of independance [sic] and
self-reliance. It has been well said: "It gave promise from the first of its
future prominence. Its geographical location, physical features, and the
character of its first settlers, all prophesied its future greatness and its
ultimate selection as the capital or head county of a great and prosperous state."
This county organization was made by an election held April 6, 1846, and on
April 13 the first board of county commissioners met and organized, Benjamin
Saylor and W. H. Meachem being the commissioners present. Eri W. Fouts, the
third member of the board, was present on the second day. Perry L. Crossman was
county clerk, William McKay, clerk of the board; William F. Avers county
treasurer; Thomas McMillin, recorder of deeds; A. D. Jones, county surveyor, and
James Phillips, coroner. Thomas Mitchell was the organizing sheriff, and was
duly elected, at the first election, sheriff for a full term.
This was in April, 1846, some six months after the lapse of the Indian title
and the opening of the lands to settlers. At the first election there were only
three voting precincts in the county: Fort Des Moines, at Thomas Mitchell's
house on Camp Creek, and at the Allen & Parmelee mill on Middle River, now in
Warren county. There is no record of number of votes polled at this first
election, but it must have been very small, although the population of the town
and county combined in 1840 was placed at 1,301.
The General Government having given the fort reservation to the county, the
latter also came into possession of all the buildings erected and occupied
previously by the troops, and many of these were occupied as homes by the first
settlers of the town, a few of them being utilized by the county officers. New
buildings, mostly one-story frames, were rapidly erected, and places for
business and homes for the newcomers were quickly provided. As was natural, for
several years business centered around the old fort buildings at "The Point,"
and along the lower parts of First, Second and Third streets, and it was eight
or ten years before "stores" and other places of business were opened on Court
avenue and Walnut street. After the first rush at the opening the increase of
population was not as rapid as might have been expected, as from 1846 to 1847 a
gain of less than six hundred appears to have been made in the population of the
county. Then it became more rapid, and in 1850, less than five years after the
Indians had left, the total population of the county had jumped from 1,301 to
4,513.
A. D. Jones, who platted as a surveyor the original town of Fort Des Moines,
in his reminiscences before the Early Settlers' Association, gives the names of
the principal citizens of the new town in August, 1840. They were:
Ezra Eathbun, father, two young ladies and two young men; D. Solenberger and
wife, W. W. Clapp and wife, James Campbell, wife and two or three children; Mr.
Thorp and several children, Mr. Morris, wife and children, Sam Vanalter, wife
and children; B. T. Hoxie, wife and children; Martin Tucker, wife and several
children; Colonel Thomas Baker, wife and several children; Mr. Cavee, wife and
two children; William Ward and wife, Perry Wear and wife, William F. Ayers, wife
and children; Addison Michael, wife and child; Colonel John Rose, wife and
children; Mr. Crowe and wife, Perry L. Crossman, wife and child; Joseph Thrift
and family; John Ehle, wife and child; Mr. Busick, wife and children. The
following names of young ladies are given: Misses Mary Thorp and sister, Melissa
Hoxie, Letitia Tucker, Miss Kirkbide and Jemima Scott. Of the unmarried
gentlemen there were: George A. Michael, Dr. Kirkbride, Thomas McMullen, P. M.
Casady, L. McHenry, Louis Whitten, Major William McKay and Jonathan and Levi
Rathbun.
During the period, from 1845 to 1850, the town of Fort Des Moines continued
to increase in population, but not with the rapidity of after years. In some
respects it was of slow growth during these five years. The town was not then
incorporated, though the town had been officially declared the county seat in
1846, and in June of the same year A. D. Jones, county surveyor, had been
ordered to plat the town. The grounds occupied by and reserved as the military
post, had by act of Congress been granted to the county for the purpose of a
county seat, and one hundred and forty-three and one-third acres entered in the
names of the county commissioners under the pre-emption laws of the United
States. Surveyor Jones completed the platting of the original town, and on July
8, 1846, B. Saylor and W. H. Meachem, county commisioners, [sic] executed a deed
of dedication of the streets, alleys, public grounds, etc., and made an official
filing of the original plat. It was ordered that the lots be sold at public
auction on July 15, 1846, and that notice of this sale be published in the Iowa
City Reporter, Burlington Hawkeye and Keosauqua Democrat. Then Des Moines had no
newspaper, and now it has more population, much more, than all three of the
cities mentioned, and newspapers by the score. These lots were sold on the
following terms: "One-sixth cash in hand, the balance in three equal
installments, in six, twelve and eighteen months." The sale was well attended
for that day, but only a comparatively small portion of the lots were then sold.
Lots were then and afterwards purchased for less than one hundred dollars, which
have since sold for many thousands of dollars. The lots not sold at public sale
were subsequently all sold by the county to private purchasers, and in a year or
two were all disposed of. The lots lying towards "The Point" on Second Street,
commanded the highest price, the lot on the corner of Second and Market bringing
$106. The high priced Walnut street lots of today were then about the lowest in
price.
The first "grocery" permits granted by the board of commissioners were to W.
W. Clapp and Addison Michael, who paid twenty-live dollars a year for the
privilege of selling intoxicating liquors. They were among the first of the
dealers in groceries, dry goods, etc. Benjamin T. Hoxie was also one of the
first, if not the first, to open a general store for the sale of goods. James
Campbell was also one of the first, with a general store, and also sold liquors.
For a number of years he was a leading merchant, and is now a well known
resident of the city. Chapman & Thompson, general store; B. F. Allen and Sam Y.
Keene, general store; William Krauss, clothing, etc.; A. Newton, general store;
L. D. Winchester, drugs; D. P. W. Day, dry goods, etc.; Jesse Dicks, hardware;
Charles Good, drugs; W. W. Moore, drugs, and afterwards general store; John
Tyler, Peter Myers, and Wiley C. Moore, clerks and dealers; C. D. Reinking,
furniture; William Deford, blacksmith; William F. Avers, and Joseph M. Thrift,
tailors; Martin Monshun, livery, hack line and mail carrier.
In January, 1847, the board of commissioners decided upon building a court
house for the county and asked for plans for the same, but not until the
following October were plans adopted. October 7, it was ordered that a court
house be built upon lot 7, in block 7, in the original town of Fort Des Moines.
This is where the Wabash and Des Moines Union railroad depot now stands, south
of the present court house. It was ordered: "Said house shall be twenty- four
feet by thirty-six feet, two stories high." Plans were ordered drawn for this by
John C. Jones.
Subsequently, November, 1847, this plan was rejected, and another adopted,
providing for a temporary court house. "The size of said court house shall be
26x52 feet, the foundation to be of stone, extending eighteen inches below and
twelve inches above the surface of the ground; wall to be made of brick and to
be two stories high; lower or basement story to be nine feet high, and the
thickness of the wall in the lower story to be eighteen inches; upper story to
be eight feet high, and the thickness of the wall in said story to be fifteen
inches." And Louis Whitten was "allowed" to procure a draft, and specifications
of the foregoing plan, and it was ordered that a contract be let at the
following January term. January 6, 1848, there appeared three bids; W. A. Scott,
$4,999.09; W. W. Jones and W. E. Close, $2,900; John Saylor, $1,950.50. Some
alterations were made in the plans and the contract was let to John Saylor for
$2,050. Saylor commenced upon his contract, which was to enclose the building in
one year and complete the same in 1849. But it appears that he did not fully
comply with his contract, as it was not completed in January, 1850, and the
board released him and contracted with Samuel Gray, plasterer, and John C.
Jones, carpenter, to complete the work. The court house appears to have been
finished in 1850, and after being in use some eight or ten years for county and
other purposes, was abandoned, and in 1868 was sold to the trustees of the
Christian church. It was afterwards sold by the church and a portion of it is
now used as a railroad depot.
The Star, the first newspaper, made its appearance in 1849, and was soon
followed by the Gazette. To show the improvements made during these five years,
the Gazette of January, 1850, gives a list of all the grist and saw mills in
Polk county at that time, as follows:
Hickman's saw mill on Beaver Creek, nine miles above, with a capacity of
about 10,000 feet of lumber per day.
Stutsman's saw mill, on Big Creek, fifteen miles up the Des Moines River,
capacity 2,500 feet per day.
Gilpin's saw mill, eight miles up the river, 1,000 feet per day.
Thompson's saw mill, on Four Mile Creek, 1,000 feet per day.
Napier's saw mill, on Four Mile Creek, with a capacity of 2,000 feet per day,
and also had a run of burs for grinding wheat and corn.
Keeny's saw mill, on North River, six miles from the mouth, 2,500 feet of
lumber per day, and also a run of burs for grinding corn. There was also another
saw mill a few miles from Keeny's, with a capacity of 2,500 feet per day.
Wright & Stump, saw mill in Dallas county, twelve miles up Raccoon River,
capacity 2,000 feet per day.
B. F. Jesse, saw mill on Walnut Creek, capacity 2,000 feet per day.
Snodgrass, saw mill on Beaver Creek, six miles from town, capacity 2,500 feet
per day.
The first mill in the limits of the city, was perhaps, one built by W. H.
Meacham. It was a circular saw, propelled by horse power, and could run about
1,500 feet of lumber per day.
About 1850 B. F. Allen and C. C. Van built a steam mill within the present
corporate limits, and shortly after, Dean & Cole erected a steam grist and saw
mill on the east bank of the river, ^between Locust and Grand avenue. This was
completed in 1850, and was in many respects superior to any previously built in
the county. It supplied for a number of years, flour and meal for most of the
country around, and in a year or two the mill was further improved, and devoted
exclusively to the manufacture of flour and meal. About 1855-6 it passed into
the control of Sheperd, Perrior & Bennett, who for fifteen or twenty years
thereafter ran the mill with much success.
Grist and saw mills were then most important auxiliaries in building up town
and county. Flour and meal were needed for food, and the lumber was required for
the erection of dwellings, store rooms, barns, stables, bridges, etc., and
without these mills the growth and prosperity of town and county would have been
greatly retarded. Then there was little shipping in of pine and other lumber and
the cost of building was heavy. Without the use of native lumber building would
have stopped. Then there was thrice the amount of native lumber used
comparatively with the present day, when railroads and other changes have
brought lumber of all kinds from a distance to he used in the construction of
buildings and for other purposes.
Another very important matter occurred during this five years. The settlers
were at last enabled to secure titles from the United States to the lands which
they had theretofore held only as aliens. April 8, 1S48, at a meeting held in
Fort Des Moines, a Claim club was organized for the purpose of protecting the
settlers in holding their claims, and also to aid them in duly entering the same
at the United States land office at Iowa City where these lands were offered at
public sale, and made subject thereafter to private entry7. The public lands in
Polk county were all surveyed in 1847, and opened to entry in October, 1848. R.
L. Tidrick was appointed the agent of the settlers to attend the land sales and
bid off the various tracts of land claimed by the settlers of the county. He
went to Iowa City in October, 1848, accompanied by a number of determined men
selected from among the settlers, and there purchased all the lands claimed for
the settlers, with very little trouble. There were more than one hundred members
of the Polk County club vitally interested in securing their respective homes
and land. After the public sale, entries were rapidly made of other lands in'
the county. More details of this club and the original entry of land are given
in another chapter of this work.
The first term of the district court ever held in the county commenced April
6, 1846, Hon. Joseph Williams, territorial judge, presiding, and thus the courts
were opened and continued open for the protection of the people and their
rights. The county organization had been perfected previously to the holding of
courts, and in a few years the incorporation of the town followed. Until
incorporated the township officers exercised their powers the same as in other
townships, and the county commissioners exercised more or less control over
affairs.
A. D. Jones, who first platted the town of Fort Des Moines, writing to the
Early Settlers' Association in 1808, gives some very interesting details of Fort
Des Moines and Polk county. Mr. Jones arrived in the town on February 13, 1840,
and on the next day attended a political mass meeting and was nominated for the
office of county surveyor and also acted as secretary of the meeting. In those
days the new-comer did not have to wait long before he was eligible for office.
The facts were, they were all new settlers. At that time the contest was between
the town of Brooklyn, on the east side near the present limits of the city, and
Fort Des Moines, as to which should be the county seat The fight was a warm one,
as all these fights are apt to be, and finally to decide the matter the General
Assembly appointed Thomas M. Hughes, of Johnson, M. Z. Williams, of Mahaska, and
Giles M. Pinneo, of Scott county, to make the location. It may seem strange to
us of this day, but the fact was there was doubt for a time as to which of the
competing towns would be the winner. The commissioners were slow in organizing
and getting to work, and local excitement ran high. It is mentioned as a
historical fact that Dr. Fagan, Thos. Mitchell and two others went to Iowa City
(then no pleasant journey in the winter time), to lobby in the General Assembly,
and by their efforts secured the passage of an act transferring the four
northern townships of Warren county to Polk county. This threw Fort Des Moines
more in the center of the county, added to her friends and helped secure finally
the county seat. Those townships were a few years later returned to Warren
county, where they really belonged. They were only borrowed for a little time on
a special occasion. This county seat trouble was finally and let us all hope,
forever settled by the action of the commissioners who selected Fort Des Moines
as the place. After a little grumbling this action of the commissioners was
cheerfully acquiesced in by all the interested parties, and Brooklyn disappeared
with many another once ambitious but now dead and forgotten town of Iowa. The
commissioners traveled over the county for more than one week looking at
proposed county seats, among others taking a look at Uncle Jerry Church's new
town of Dudley, some two miles east of the present town of Carlisle, in Warren
county, but, much to Uncle Jerry's chagrin, pronounced it too low and subject to
overflow. However, when a year or two later the waters of the Des Moines covered
all his town site he was forced to admit the commissioners were not without good
judgment. On May 25, 1846, the people of Fort Des Moines and their friends had a
grand jollification over the action of the commissioners, firing log and other
guns, giving a big dinner, and closing with speeches, music and dancing. They
were happy; Fort Des Moines was the county seat of Polk county!
Mr. Jones states: "March 1, 1846, the first marriage was solemnized between
John Beard and Mary Jane Welman, by Rev. Mr. Post. The license was procured from
Marion County."
A. D. Jones' opponent for county surveyor got more votes than he did on the
face of the returns, but Jones contested and secured the office, and by virtue
of it commenced the survey of the town of Fort Des Moines on June 4. 1846.
Among the items of interest given by Mr. Jones in his letter are the following:
"Martin Tucker started the first hotel. The first preacher of Polk county was
Ezra Rathbun, Methodist, and about the smartest preacher we ever had in the
county. Besides that he was a gentleman, and not to disparage others of his
profession, he was every way their superior.
"On June 10, 1846, the first marriage license in the county was issued to
Benjamin Bryant and Barbara Elvira Birge.
"We celebrated the Fourth of July, 1846, with Tom Baker, orator; Major McKay,
reader of Declaration of Independence; Messrs. Winchester, France and Scott,
marshals, and myself acting as president of the day. Toasts were read and
cheered. About two hundred people were in attendance. The day was very warm.
Dinner, one dollar per couple. A dance was held at night. Take the day through
it was a pleasant and jolly gathering.
"The lawyers in town July 23, 1846, were: Thos. Baker, W. D. Frazee, P. M.
Casady, L. D. Winchester and William McKay. Physicians: Dr. Fagan, a graduate of
St. Louis, and Dr. Kirkbride.
"One store, assessed at $1,500, kept by B. T. Hoxie, one dry goods and
grocery store, by A. Michael, a grocery and provision store, by W. W. Clapp, a
grocery (saloon) and place of amusement, by J. Campbell, a tavern by M. Tucker,
an apothecary shop, by L. D. Winchester, a turner and chair factory, by Mr. Van
Matlang, wagon maker and carpenter, D. Solenberger, mill-wright, John Ehle, and
W. F. Ayers, tailor, A. Michael, justice of the peace, and Jesse R. Miller,
constable. Methodist church with two ministers, Ezra Rathbun and father, and a
Baptist church.
"July 23,1846, I made it my business to take the census. There were eleven
young ladies and thirteen young gentlemen, who were proper subjects for matrimony.
"A very perceptible difference formerly was noticed in reference to the
waters of the Des Moines and 'Coon rivers, the former being much the warmer at
the same hour."
On the original site of Des Moines were several mounds, the principal ones
being where W. W. Moore's buildings and Wonderland Museum now stand, corner of
Fourth and Walnut streets, and also on the court house square. It is claimed by
some that they were prehistoric work, and the Indians knew nothing of their
origin. A. D. Jones, the surveyor, however, claims they were nothing but the
debris and accumulations around the fallen residences of Indians formerly
inhabiting this region. He contends they were not graves, though it is claimed
the early settlers found in them human bones and other relics. W. W. Moore
bought the block mentioned in 1852 for $600, and lived with his family for
several years in a neat frame cottage perched high above the present grade. He
yet owns most of the block which is now worth much more than one hundred times
what he paid for it something over forty years ago.
W. W. Moore says the first Sunday after he arrived in Fort Des Moines there
was a horse race, attended by many people, and stores were open as usual. He
displayed goods in front of Lyon & Allen's store the same as upon other days.
The original Indian race track ran diagonally from about where the Kirkwood
House stands towards and west of the court house square, passing over the ground
where the Methodist church once stood, and where now is the large Iowa Loan and
Trust building. There were many exciting races, over the track in the early
days. Later there was a race track further west, and in 1855 Dr. James Campbell
and others arranged a race track on the bottom south of 'Coon River. These were
generally running races, a single dash of one-quarter of a mile, and money was
often freely staked upon them in considerable amounts. Watches and other
personal property were also frequently staked upon the results, and in a few
instances it is said town lots, then not as valuable as now, were wagered on a
horse race. Foot races were also common. The Indians were very fond of racing.
and always had ponies they would run, and many of them were inveterate
gamesters. They were generally what was termed "square gamblers," and paid their
losses without grumbling, though they not unfrequently were winners from the
whites. The latter were also fond of the sport and excitement and races were of
frequent occurrence. Later on, in 1855, shortly after his arrival here, the
writer was induced to wager $40 on two foot races, and quickly lost it all. The
winning runner in one of these races has recently been running as a canvasser
for this History. The writer not long afterwards had the satisfaction of
defeating an Indian in a foot race and thus recouped a portion of the money he
had lost.
The first drug store was opened by Dr. F. C. Grimmell, who, with his wife and
live children, came from Perry county, Ohio. From their old to their new home
they came overland with teams, and brought not only household goods, but also a
stock of drugs, arriving in Fort Des Moines on October 15, 1846. The only vacant
house they could find for immediate use was the old square house of the
garrison, two rooms about fourteen feet square, with small iron-barred windows.
Two sides of the rooms were filled with the drugs, etc., and the remainder
occupied by the family and goods. In the spring of 1847 Dr. Grimmell made a
claim on eighty acres of land lying north from Grand avenue to School street,
east to Fourth and west to Eighth street. At that time this valuable tract was
covered with oak grubs and hazel brush, and in places it was difficult for a man
to pass through it. The same spring the Doctor erected a log cabin where the
large Catholic church now stands, and a stable on the lot where now reside the
Sisters of Charity. Shortly after he erected a frame dwelling in front of the
log cabin, and was much delayed in finishing the same because of the scarcity of
finishing lumber and lime. In this building in June, 1818, the Doctor's
daughter, Augusta, was married to P. M. Casady, and in this same house some
years after, Charles L. Kahler, our well known business man, was also married.
In 1856-7 Dr. Grimmell erected the fine brick mansion on the brow of the hill on
the large lot on the east side of Sixth avenue, between Chestnut and Park
streets. It was at the time, and for several years after, the largest and best
residence in the city. Dr. F. C. Grimmell died, much lamented by the many who
knew him, in February, 1862. Subsequently Gen. J. M. Turtle purchased this
residence and with his family lived in it for a number of years.
From 1845 to 1850 farms were being rapidly opened and settlements made in
different portions of the county. And as was to be expected, many towns sprung
up, some of which have lived and enjoyed various degrees of prosperity up to
this day, while others have entirely disappeared and are now only a memory of
the past. Saylorville was laid out August 10, 1850, by John Savior, and James
Ewing built the first frame house there. Polk City was platted in November,
1850, by George Beebe, who built another mill, opened up a stock of dry goods
and groceries, sold lots and generally pushed the town. John Houser laid out the
rival town of Montacute a few miles south, and had there a general store, post
office, etc., but in a few years the town practically ceased to exist. The town
of Corydon, on the river, was started later, in 1853, and flourished moderately
for a time. In the latter part of 1849 Dr. A. Y. Hull and his associates became
interested in the town of Lafayette, previously started by Charles Freely, on
the Des Moines River, in Camp township. There was a public sale of lots January
12, 1850, they selling at a low price with the understanding the purchaser would
build upon the same. The result was a number of houses, generally small, were
soon erected in the town. The settlement of the town actually commenced in 1848,
though the public sale of lots was not had until two years later. The town of
Adelphi, a few miles above, was also named and settled at a later date, by
Valerius Young, in 1856. Jerry Church's town of Dudley, in Allen township, was
also located by him at an early day and he had high hopes of its future
prosperity, but these were all drowned out by the floods of 1851 and the high
waters of subsequent years. Other towns may have died natural deaths, but the
floods swept Uncle Jerry's away.
By the beginning of 1850 farms were opened in every portion of the county,
though these settlements were then frequently some miles apart, and there were
in the county broad stretches of prairie where not a single house could be seen.
In those days the new settler thought he must settle, if possible, in or near
timber, and because of this the rich open prairie lands, now the best, were then
avoided. A large portion of these prairie lands were then unentered and remained
unsold by the Government. In fact it was nearly ten years thereafter before all
the available government lands in the county were entered either for settlement
or speculation.
During the '40s the town of Fort Des Moines was small, but it was growing,
and its citizens, as much as to-day, were alive to its future possibilities.
These possibilities were by many of them regarded as probabilities, and they
endeavored to bring them into the field of certainties. It was generally
understood that Iowa City was only to be the temporary capital of the state, and
that it would in time be removed farther west to a more central location. In
1848-9 the General Assembly had appointed a commission to select the capital,
and this commission had chosen a location on the prairie divide between the
waters of the Des Moines and Skunk rivers, near the present town of Monroe,
Jasper county. There was not even a settlement within four miles of the location
chosen. But a section of land was laid out in lots for a future city, and many
of them sold at good prices. The selection was ridiculed, the commissioners
charged with being foolish or corrupt, and the General Assembly would not
approve. That project was a dead failure. But even in the '40s, as previously
stated, the citizens and friends of Fort Des Moines were at work and then
started the project of removal which only a few years later resulted in making
Des Moines the permanent capital of the state of Iowa. Then there1 was no
"divisive strife"they all worked harmoniously together for the common good.
During these first years there were no bridges over the rivers, but W. A.
Scott maintained boat ferries over both the Des Moines and Raccoon rivers, and
these accommodated the public when the waters were too high for safe fording.
In glancing over a copy of the Iowa Star, printed in November, 1849, we find
in its advertising columns the names of the following business and professional
men then in Fort Des Moines:
Lawyers: John M. Perry, Lewis WhittenPerry & Whitten; P. M. Casady, R. L.
TidrickCasady & Tidrick; Aemilius T. Reynolds, Barlow Granger, C. R. Jones;
also the cards of Lysander W. Babbitt, attorney at Knoxville, and William T.
Smith, attorney at Oskaloosa. The latter is now a well-known resident of Des
Moines.
Physicians: E. T. Collett, D. V. Cole, J. M. Vaughn.
Dry goods and groceries: Lyon & Allen, E. Wise & Co., James Campbell, R. W.
Sypher, and the German store, clothing and dry goods of Sauer & Co., and D. V.
Cole & Co., advertise the opening of a new drug store.
Miscellaneous: Barlow Granger, general land agent; A. B. Fuller, blacksmith;
J. H. Posegate, gunsmith; Philip Johns, boot and shoe maker; John Butler,
fashionable tailor; Elias Feller, boot and shoe maker.
The card of Curtis Bates, attorney at Iowa City, also appears. He soon after
became one of the prominent citizens of Des Moines. The same paper also contains
a notice of the first sale of lots, December 10, in Indianola, the new county
seat of Warren county. An advertisement of George B. Warden & Co., dealers in
dry goods and groceries at Adel, also appears. The only hotel card of the town
appearing is that of the Marvin House, corner of Third and Walnut streets, kept
by Benjamin Luce and William T. Marvin. B. F. Allen gives notice that he has
lost a promissory note for $1,000, signed by T. McMullin, and Andrew J. Stevens,
secretary, publishes a school notice. A somewhat lengthy notice is given of a
railroad meeting held at Winterset, and which urged the building of what is now
the Rock Island railroad. Evidently it was then hoped the main line of this road
would pass through or near the then new town of Winterset.
The Star in this issue gives an illustration of how at that early day they
all labored together in building up their town and county. They allowed no petty
jealousies or selfish schemes to stand in the way. The Star was to have a
competitor or rival in its field, another newspaper, the Gazette, was to be
established here by Lampson P. Sherman, and Col. Barlow Granger kindly and
courteously gave it a welcome, saying:
"We shall welcome the Gazette and hope the publisher will realize his most
sanguine expectations. It tells well for the prosperity of this townonly a
three-year-old that two papers can be established with even a hope of being
sustained. A little liberality from the different parties towards each other and
both papers can be well kept up and assist in making known our superior
advantages."
One J. B. Newhall published, in the year named, in Chicago, a book entitled,
"A Glimpse of Iowa in 1846." In this work he places the population of Polk
county at 1,301, but adds: "It is believed now (July, 1846), the population will
reach 1,600. Number of persons paying poll tax this spring, 354. Voters in
April, 190." Of the town of Fort Des Moines the book says:
"The dragoons left on the 8th and 10th of March, 1846, and after they left
the permanent settlers consisted of four families, making all together about
twenty souls. It is thought there would have been more had there been
accommodations for them."
The book then gives the following:
"Fort Des Moines Directory: Dry goods and groceries, B. T. Hoxie, A. Michael;
hotel, Des Moines House, Martin Tucker; lawyers, Col. Baker, W. D. Frazee,
William McKay; physicians, Doctors Fagan and Kirkbride; churches, two regularly
organized, Methodist and Baptist, and one resident minister, Rev. E. Rathbun;
two groceries, one carpenter shop, one wagon maker, one blacksmith, one
cabinetmaker, one plasterer, bricklayer, etc."
How would this brief directory compare with the large and voluminous Des
Moines Business Directory of fifty years later1896?
LAND SURVEYS.
While to some the government plan of land surveys is familiar, yet by many it
is not fully understood, and this brief explanation which we find in a former
history, may not be out of place in this volume.
The government system of land surveys provides for the division of the
country into small square portions of uniform size, varying from that shape only
when large rivers or lakes make it necessary. To begin such a division of lands
there must be some fixed points to measure from. The first lines started from
such points are of two kinds: Principal meridian, running north and south, and
base lines, running east and west. The first lines were commenced in the eastern
part of the country which was first settled, and the first line established was
called the First Principal meridian. As the surveys were extended west other
principal meridians were established. The land surveys of Polk county and nearly
all of Iowa are reckoned from the Fifth Principal meridian. The point which
fixes the location is the mouth of the Arkansas River. It was due north through
Missouri and a portion of eastern Iowa and strikes the Mississippi River again
at the dividing line between Dubuque and Clayton counties. At a distance of six
miles west of this is run another line, and the land between these two is called
range one west. Another parallel line is run six miles further west, and is
called range two west, and so on are these ranges numbered until we come to Polk
county, the east line of which is range twenty-two west.
The point which fixes the location of the base line is the mouth of the St.
Francis River, in Arkansas. This line runs east and west. Six miles north of it
extends another parallel line, and the land between the two lines is designated
township one north. This is continued, a parallel line every six miles, until we
come to the seventy-seventh, numbering from the base line, which forms the
southern boundary of Polk county. Six miles north of it extends the
seventy-eighth, and the land between the two is called township seventy-eight
north. It will be observed the meridian and base or township lines cross each
other every six miles. These six miles square parcels are called congressional
townships and are unchangeable. The civil townships are different, as they can
be and frequently are changed by the county authorities.
In surveying what are called wild or unsurveyed lands the first work of the
surveyors is to establish the township lines, after which each township is
divided into thirty-six sections, each generally containing 640 acres, though
they may overrun or fall short of this by corrections made on the north and west
lines of a township, or because of rivers or lakes. This work is under the
supervision of the surveyor general of the district, while the work in the field
is done by deputy surveyors and often by contract. A surveying party generally
consisted of about seven persons. One chief in charge of the instruments, two
chain bearers, one stake driver, one flagman and one cook. They generally worked
every day regardless of the weather and slept at night in their tent. They
occasionally had some rough experiences, but generally managed to extract some
enjoyment while at their work. Hon. Ira Cook, formerly mayor and for many years
a prominent citizen of Des Moines, was for some time with a surveying party near
by and west and north of Polk county. The surveys of Polk county were all made
in 1847, from June to November.
The congressional townships in Polk county are townships 7S, 79, 80, 81, of
ranges 22, 23, 24, 25 and a fraction of township 77, range 22.
FIRST LAND ENTRIES.
At the time of the first settlement of the county the lands had not yet been
fully surveyed by the officers of the General Government, and of course were not
subject to entry. In fact the surveys of the county were not completed until in
November, 1847, and were not open to entry until late in the following year,
1848. There were but one or two entries made in 1847, so that practically it was
not until 1848 could the early settlers secure a title to their lands, which up
to that time they held simply as "claims." Sometime previous to the United
States government sale of these lands at Iowa City speculators from the east
were scouring the country and noting the most valuable tracts. This would have
been all right in itself if they had confined their attentions to the wholly
unoccupied land, but they cast their covetous eyes upon lands which were then
occupied and being improved by the actual settlers at the first public sale.
This would have been an outrage under color of law upon those settlers who had
endured so many of the hardships of a new country to secure to themselves and
families farms and homes.
Mr. Turrell, in his history, the first published, gives the account in full
which we here republish:
"So highly incensed did the people become at the idea of speculators
overbidding them at the land sales, that they viewed every stranger with
distrust, lest his errand among them should be to note the numbers of some
choice tracts, and make them his own by giving prices beyond the reach of the
claimant. A unity of feeling on this subject filled the entire country. They
were determined to save their claims despite any efforts or intervention to the
contrary, and, if possible, their intention was to pay no more than the lowest
government price. Strangers passing through the country had to be careful not to
meddle with the lands claimed, otherwise than honestly buying them from the
possessors. If the object was thought to be different, if they were suspected of
being engaged in any scheme for the unjust deprival of any settler of what were
considered his unquestionable rights, they at once incurred the hostile feeling
of every inhabitant, and were not safe until they had entirely left the country.
"It soon became evident that some regular organization was needed among the
settlers the better to control any outbreaks of popular rage, and cause
non-residents to pay due respect to the claims which had been made, as also to
prevent difficulties among the settlers themselves, the dishonest of whom did
not scruple to take advantage of a neighbor's temporary absence, sickness or
remoteness from aid, and 'jump his claim/ that is, take and hold possession of
it vi et armis, depriving him totally of his rights in the premises. The
settlers, or citizens as they may now more properly be called, of Polk county,
held a meeting to consider the proper course to pursue, and as the document
which reports their proceedings is particularly interesting, we give it entire.
Through the kindness of Benj. Bryant, Esq., in whose possession it has been
preserved, a copy of it has been procured for this work:
" 'At a public meeting of the citizens of Polk county, Iowa, held on the 8th
day of April, 1848, at Fort Des Moines, W. H. Meachem was called to the chair,
and L. D. Winchester elected secretary of the meeting.
"'The object of the meeting was then stated by the chairman to be to adopt
measures for the security and protection of the citizens of said county in their
claims against speculators, and all persons who may be disposed wrongfully to
deprive settlers of their claims by preemption or otherwise.
" 'Dr. Brooks being called upon, made a speech appropriate to the occasion,
as also did Mr. Myers.
" 'On motion of the secretary, the following gentlemen were appointed a
committee to draft resolutions expressive of the sense of the meeting, to wit:
Winchester, Mitchell, Scott, Sypher and Saylor.
" 'The committee reported the following resolutions:
1. Resolved, That we will protect all persons who do or may hold claims,
against the interference of any person or persons, who shall attempt to deprive
such claim-holders of their claims by pre-emptions or otherwise.
2. Resolved, That we will, in all cases, discountenance the speculator or
other person who shall thus attempt any innovation upon the homes of the
rightful settlers; that we will not hold any fellowship with such person, and
that he be regarded a nuisance in the community.
3. Resolved, That no person shall be allowed to pre-empt or purchase in any
form from the government, any land which shall be held as a claim, unless he
shall first obtain the consent of the claimant.
4. Resolved, That the filing of an intention to pre-empt, contrary to the
rights of the settler, be regarded as an attempt to wrongfully deprive the
citizen of his home and his claim.
5. Resolved, That a committee of five be appointed, and that it shall be
their duty to inquire into and adjust all difficulties and contentions, in cases
where claims are in dispute.
6. Resolved, That it shall be the duty of said committee to notify any person
who shall pre-empt or attempt to do so, by filing his intentions to pre-empt,
the claim of any other person, to leave the vicinity and the county; and that
they have authority to enforce a compliance with said notice.
7. Resolved, That we will sustain and uphold such committee in their
decisions, and in the discharge of all their duties as defined in the foregoing
resolutions.
8. Resolved, That all persons be invited to sign the foregoing resolutions,
and that the signers pledge themselves to be governed by, and to aid in
sustaining the same.
" 'The foregoing resolutions were unanimously adopted.
" 'On motion the following named gentlemen were appointed a committee to
adjust claims: J. B. Scott, John Saylor, P. B. Fagan, Thomas Mitchell and Thomas
Henderson.
" 'On motion, the meeting adjourned.
" 'W. H. Meachem, Chairman.
" 'L. D. Winchester, Secretary.'"
The resolutions were signed by the following named persons:
W. H. Meachem, J. B. Scott, P. B. Fagan, T. Henderson, T. Crabtree, W. A.
Scott, W. Wear, John Myers, T. McCall, J. Thompson, Wm. Bradford, N. Ball, J.
Bundruin, Joseph Deford, J. M. Kirkbride, John Saylor, John Hayes, J. H. Finch,
P. Newcomer, Dayton Harris, John Bennett, D. S. Cockerham, Benj. Bennett, J. T.
Thompson, N. Reeves, Wm. Cooper, John McMahan, Wm. Hughes, A. L. Dean, P. Wear,
E. Keeler, James Anderson, J. Church, H. Everly, C. B. Myers, D. L. Jewett,
David Norris, Wm. Busic, Jr., Charles Kurvey, R. A. Harban, J. D. McGlothlin,
Wm. Lower, Jacob Baycus, Solomon Bales, Geo. Daily, L. Garrett, A. N. Hayes, G.
W. Lacy, George Knoop, Asa Flemming, Thos. Gilpin, John Miller, D. S. Bowman,
Charles Murrow, Robt. Hopkins, Joseph Keeney, James Phillips, L. D. Winchester,
John Saylor, T. Mitchell, Benj. Saylor, H. D. Hendricks, T. Campbell, G.
Maginniss, J. C. Jones, J. Frederick, R. W. Sypher, Saml. Kellogg, Wm. Garrett,
W. F. Ayers, John S. Dean, Eli Keeler, George Oglevie, Wm. Kuren, T. K. Brooks,
Joseph Myers, J. Tribee, J. G. Tuttle, B. Perkins, Jacob Winter, D. Haworth, S.
W. McCall, Montgomery McCall, A. W. Hobson, B. F. Frederick, Wm. Busic, Sr., E.
Compton, John Wildy, J. Harris, H. Huntington, John Baird, W. B. Binte, B. J.
Saylor, George Krysher, C. Stutsman, D. S. Marts, C. S. Evans, David Miller,
James McRoberts, Franklin Nagle.
"Several other meetings followed this first one throughout the summer of
1848, and the last one was held during the same year just a short time before
the land sales began at Iowa City. This meeting was an immense affair, its chief
object being to elect a bidder to attend the sales.
"R. L. Tidrick was elected bidder, and a platoon of men were selected from
the club whose duty it was to thoroughly arm themselves and accompany the bidder
in the capacity of an escort. Mr. Tidrick and his bodyguard attended the sales,
and such a formidable array did they present that the rights of settlers were
not interfered with. The claims were ultimately secured at the minimum price of
$1.25 per acre, and the matter was as a general thing finally adjusted amicably."
There were, however, a few instances in which difficulties sprung up that
were not so amicably adjusted. We reproduce two incidents of this character as
related by Mr. Turrell in his reminiscences.
"In the spring of 1849 occurred what was called the Flemming and Perkins
difficulties which, arising from a subject particularly relating to the
settlers, threatened for a time to prove very serious. The difficulty at first
sprung from a contention about land. Asa Flemming had made a claim a few miles
below Des Moines, and B. Perkins, a neighbor, endeavored to preempt it, and had
actually filed his intention to that effect. Perkins' fraudulent scheme being
discovered caused great excitement in the vicinity, and many and dire were the
imprecations invoked upon his head. It was also rumored that one Holland had
been a partner of Perkins in the movement, and was to furnish the money with
which to obtain the patent from the United States, but the truth of this report
was never fully substantiated.
"Perkins and Flemming were both members of the claim club, whose rules and
regulations have already been given, and this circumstance proving fully the
perfidious character of the former, enlisted an additional hatred against him.
Non-residents and strangers, the settlers expected would encroach upon their
rights. Such they were vigorously watching, and were prepared to counteract and
resist any innovations from such sources, but that one of their own citizensone
who was a member of an organization for the mutual protection of allwho had
bound himself to abide by the club laws, and whose interests if jeopardized
would have been amply guarded from danger would prove recreant to every
sentiment of integrity, justice and honor, was unthought of, unexpected, and
therefore the more condemned and detested. Under the circumstances Flemming
easily succeeded in effecting a combination of the settlers residing near him
for the protection of his claim, and to administer exemplary punishment to
Perkins. The members of the claim club were all ready to assist, for the
interests of one were the interests of the whole community. If Perkins should
succeed in his plans others would follow his example; a claim would soon be of
no value, and a general disturbance arise throughout the whole country.
"Mr. Perkins being found one day in the vicinity of the claim in dispute, the
settlers, led by Flemming, resolved to wreak their vengeance upon him, and armed
and equipped themselves for that purpose. Perkins, however, became aware of
their plans before they could secure him, and on their approach 'stood not upon
the order of his going,' but mounted a horse and fled at once. Several shots
were fired at him without effect, and the terrified fugitive flying for his life,
'Stayed not for brake, and he stopped not for stone,'
until he arrived at Des Moines. With a horse covered with sweat and trembling
with fatigue, himself without a hat or coat, and almost frantic with the
delusion that his pursuers were close upon him, he reached the Raccoon ferry,
and eagerly besought the ferryman, Alex. Scott, to lose not a moment in crossing
him over the ferry into town, where he hoped to find a secure asylum from his
bloodthirsty enemies.
" 'Safely ensconced in Fort Des Moines, Perkins in a few days recovered from
his recent fright, and growing valorous at the abuse of his foes, and the
distance from danger, contrary to the advice of his friends, swore out a warrant
for the arrest of Flemming, whom only he could identify, charging him with
shooting with intent to kill. Flemming was subsequently arrested by George
Michael, a constable, and brought before Benj. Luce, Esq., for examination.
Luce's office was in a building formerly a part of the fort, situated near the
point. Its site is at present occupied by a German grocery.
" 'While Flemming was upon his trial a mob of his friends, armed to the
teeth, surrounded and broke into the office, carrying away the prisoner by main
force and bidding defiance to the authorities. Resistance to this mob was not
for a moment thought of. Probably the unfavorable opinion entertained of Perkins
by the citizens of Fort Des Moines led them to look more leniently upon so
dangerous a proceeding; but it is more likely that the absence of force on the
side of the law and the suddenness of the attack rendered any opposition
unavailing, and, therefore, was not attempted. Flemming, rescued from the bonds
of the law, was triumphantly escorted to his home with every demonstration of
success and exultation.
' "He was afterwards re-arrested, and again did the mob endeavor to rescue
him, but their presence was expected. When some eighty of these were seen on the
other side of the Raccoon River, brandishing their weapons and loudly calling
for the ferryboat to take them over, the good people of Des Moines grew nervous
with excitement, and nothing less than a battle was expected. James Phillips,
then coroner, but in the delirium of the exciting crisis, and doubtless
over-stimulated by a few extra potations of brandy, styling himself a major in
the army of the United States, proclaimed martial law in the town, and went
around to all the stores, commanding the proprietors to lock up their houses in
order to save their goods from pillage, arm themselves and be ready to act under
orders. Many of them did so. A large crowd collected at the 'Point,' where the
band of insurgents could be plainly seen, endeavoring to gain passage over the
stream, and could be heard uttering loud threats against every power, judicial,
executive and military in Fort Des Moines.
" 'But by the coolness and intrepidity of Alex. Scott, the ferryman, their
riotous project was completely frustrated. He calmly and firmly refused to take
them over unless they unarmed themselves. They stormed, cursed, threatened, but
not an inch would he let the boat go until they stacked their arms, and laid
aside every offensive weapon. Unmoved by their threats and unprovoked by their
maledictions, Scott resolutely adhered to his purpose, and finally the mob
sullenly stacked their arms, and then, and not till then, were they ferried
across the Raccoon.
" 'Armed intervention was no longer practicable, and Flemming was examined,
the charge found true and he was obliged to give bonds for his appearance at the
next term of the district court However, he finally escaped, as the grand jury
failed to indict him. Perkins found his conduct, in reference to pre-empting
Flemming's land, so universally condemned, and himself an object of such general
detestation, that he was glad to execute to Flemming a bond, in which it was
stipulated that the latter should have a warranty deed for the claim in dispute,
as soon as a patent could be procured from the Government, upon paying to
Perkins the sum of one dollar and twenty-five cents an acre. The execution of
this bond ended all persecution, suits and riots in the case, but Perkins was
but little esteemed ever afterward.' "
Additional Comments:
Extracted from:
ANNALS OF POLK COUNTY, IOWA,
AND
CITY OF DES MOINES
BY WILL PORTER.
"And this volume, dedicated to its people, sets forth in attractive style all
the facts and incidents that go to make up the history of which all citizens are
justly proud."
Major Hoyt Sherman.
GEO. A. MILLLER PRINTING COMPANY,
PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS,
DES MOINES, IOWA,
1898.
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