ISLE-OF-WIGHT-L Archives

Archiver > ISLE-OF-WIGHT > 1998-08 > 0903412771


From: Barry Drinkle <>
Subject: Isle-of-Wight Holiday 1912 #7
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 23:59:31 -0400


RYDE
All Saints' Church. (The church is open daily until sunset)
It is significant of the changes wrought in the island by the
influx of visitors that Ryde on the north and Ventnor on the
south both once formed part of the parish of Newchurch, which
then extednded right across the Island from sea to sea.
Ryde was not formed into a separate parish until 1866, though,
of course, it had churches of its own long before that date.
The foundation-stone of All Saints' was laid by Princess Christian,
on behalf of Queen Victoria, in 1869, and the edifice was consecrated
by Bishop Wilberforce in 1872. It has since been enlarged. Sir Gilbert
G. Scott was probably responsible for a large number of the churches
than any other architect of the nineteeth century, and this is
undoubtedly one of the best specimens of his work, many authorities
considering it the finest parish in the south of England.
It owes something, of course, to its position on the brow of the
hill on which Ryde is built. The finely proportioned spire rises to
a height of 180 feet and is visible for miles in every direction,
being, the farthest seen landmark of the town. The church is in
the Decorated style, and consists of nave, chancel and north and
south aisles. The interior is beautifully finished. Two graceful
arcades separate the aisles from the nave, the capitals of the pillars
showing some good ornamentation. The octagonal pulpit is of
variegated alabaster, the base consisting of a number of fluted
columns of white marble. The font is of white marble, exquisitely
carved. The reredos is also admired. The bell-tower contains a fine
peal.
Apart from the Sunday services, All Saints' Church is most visited on
account of the extensive view to be had from the Tower. The greater
part of the Island can be clearly seen, together with Spithead and
the Solent and a considerable portion of Hampshire, including, of
course, Portsmouth and Southampton. In fine weather the spire Chishester
Cathedral is visible. The charge for permission to ascend the tower is
sixpence each person. The proceeds are devoted to church expenses.
(If verger is not in attendance, a notice in the North Porch tells
visitors where to obtain the keys.)
Opposite the Church, in West Street, is the former Welby Church
Institue, now used as a school, an attractive stone building from the
roof of which is also a fine view over the Solent.
We are not prepared to support the sardonic suggestion of a local
writer that "every visitor to Ryde should go to the Cemetery,"
but will content ourselves with remarking that the grounds, comprising
about ten acres, have been laid out by the Corporation in an unusually
attractive manner, and are really worth looking at. The Cemetery is
in Upper West Street, a short distance beyond All Saints' Church.
Between the Cemetery and the Swanmore Road stands the Royal Isle
of Wight Infirmary and County Hospital, an institution belonging to
the whole Island rather than to Ryde alone.
If we go eastward, by the short Hill Street, opposite the cemetery,
we enter the somewhat tortuous High Street. Returning along it we
notice on the right the Roman Catholic Church, dedicated to the
Immaculate Heart of Mary. Over the altar is a fine picture of the
Crucifixion, copied from that in the Sistine Chapel at Rome.
A few yards beyond the church we enter Star Street, on the right, and
almost immediately turn left into George Street, running parallel with
Union Street, and terminating at the Esplanade.
At the upper end of George Street is the School of Art, where may
be seen collections of Isle of Wight birds and fossils. Lower down,
and on the opposite side of the road, are the Baptist Chapel and the
Congregational Church. A little lower, in George Street, is the
bow-windowed York Hotel, where, in 1870, the late ex-Empress Eugenie
stayed a night after her hurried flight in disguise from the Tuileries.
To quote the words of one who was present on her arrival: "On 7th
September the yachy Deauville, and for about thirty miles the little
cutter (about 40 tons) had a fair wind, when it suddenly chopped
round to the N.W., and the remainder of the voyage was made under
a three-reefed mainsail, foresail, and storm-jibe, in the teeth
of a fresh gale. The Gazelle completed her voyage by dropping anchor
off Ryde Pier at about 12:30 a.m. on September 8. Sir John Burgoyne,
with the late Empress, arrived at the York Hotel about 1 a.m.,
and after a violent knocking at the front door, the then landlord,
Mr. Sadler, found two gentlemen and two ladies standing there. Their
names were not known then nor even after the party had engaged the
best suite of rooms. It was not until late in the same day, when
the Empress left the hotel, that her identity was disclosed to the
landlord."
In Dover Street, in the eastern part of the town, is Holy Trinity
Church, chiefly notable for its pinnacled tower and spire, rising to
a height of 146 feet. St. John's, in the pleasant locality of the
same name, was built in 1843, and enlarged and re-consecrated in 1870.
St. Michael's and All Angels' Church, in Swanmore, serves the southern
end of the town.
We have thus dutifully set forth the principal features of Ryde, but
candour compels the admission that visitors do not go there for any
of these things. We intend no disrespect to the finest town in the
Island in saying that, generally speaking, people go to Ryde to get
away from it. In other words, the town offers so many facilities in
the way of carriage, train and steamer excursions that it is admittedly
the best head-quarters for those whose principal object is to see all
that the Island and the adjoining mainland have to offer in the way
of beauty and interest.
TBC

This thread: