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From: "Jean Rice" <>
Subject: [IGW] Circa 1880s Co. Kerry -- Gap of Dunlop -- (KEARNEY, LOVETT)
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 11:12:38 -0700

The charm of old Ireland -- Richard LOVETT was an enthusiastic English
traveller who toured Ireland by steamer, train, carriage and on foot. He
marveled at the beautiful scenery of Ireland but was sometimes annoyed by
the native guides and "beggars." He mentions the cottage of Kate KEARNEY
and her descendants, which apparently is still an attraction now in the
Irish Touring Guides. His impressions of Ireland were published in 1888 by
The Religious Tract Society.

"Killarney, in the writer's judgment, is quite capable of holding its rank
among the districts of exceptional natural beauty. Arrived at Killarney,
the first task is to see it. At present the arrangements for doing this are
not so convenient as they might be. Those who come by the Kenmare Road get
a succession of lovely distant views, and those whose purses admit of a
sojourn at the Lake or the Royal Victoria Hotels have no reason to complain;
but for all others, to get anything like a view of the lakes is a task
involving the expenditure of time, exertion, and money. The domain of the
Earl of Kenmare lies between Lough Leane and the town, and around this a
lofty wall has been constructed, with the result that it prevents any view
whatsoever, unless the visitor proceeds to some such recognised point of
vantage as Ross Castle. It is the same on the road to Muckross Abbey. In
fact, it is possible, or rather, as there is no choice in the matter, it is
compulsory, on all who wish to travel the six miles of road between Muckross
Abbey and Lake View House, to journey by a road which on one side of the way
presents the unvarying monotony of a blank stone wall. The patient
endurance of those who thus journey is not strengthened by the recollection
that on the other side of the wall are some of the best views in what is
considered to be the loveliest region in Ireland. Whether, if these walls
were lowered, matters would be better, the experts must decide. Killarney
is a district rather than a town. There is indeed a cluster of streets,
lined for the most part by very unattractive houses and shops, and not at
all remarkable for neatness. These constitute a town, but no visitor is
likely to wish to linger there. But the country about, for 15 miles or so,
especially to the south and west, abounds in peaks that may be ascended,
mountain loughs, about which linger grim legends, waterfalls and cascades,
passes and glens, trips by car or by boat - in fact scenery, the chief
beauties of which can be exhausted in two days, or which can afford the
careful explorer pleasant tasks for weeks.

The most comprehensive excursion is to the Gap of Dunloe, and back by way of
the lakes. For this a whole day is needed, and the earlier the start the
better. A good pedestrian can walk it, but the pleasantest way is to take a
car to the foot of the Gap; by this means the five miles of wall are passed
quickly, and the wayfarer is fresh for the walk through the Gap, and any
excursion that may seem desirable, say the ascent of Purple Mountain, or a
stroll up the Black Valley. By this route the Killorglin road is taken, and
on the right hand, two or three miles out of the town, the ruins of Aghadoe
Church and Round Tower are passed. About two miles or so away from the
mouth of the Gap, the first experience of the great Killarney nuisance is
encountered. Not far from Aghadoe the road forks, and here, on the alert to
catch their victims early, are stationed a collection of the Killarney
beggars, misnamed guides. They are mounted on ponies, and their object is
to succeed in getting these taken for the ride up the pass. There is no
escape from them. The best plan is to say little or nothing, to buy
nothing, and, above all, to drink none of the various mixtures that are
offered every few hundred years along the route. It is really intolerable
that these hordes of beggars should be allowed thus to detract from the
enjoyment of a very lovely district. One is inclined to hold that if the
advocates of Home Rule could make it evident that their panacea would banish
the beggars, not only from the Gap, but from all the other lovely parts of
the kingdom, they would at once secure the sympathy of all travellers.
These would consent to a good deal in order to secure the disappearance of
the men and boys who offer ponies for hire, who bring cornets to wake the
echoes, and who wish to fire off cannons that look admirably adapted to
destroy the individual bold enough to fire them; together with the girls who
offer for sale woollen socks and potheen and milk, the whole tribe of Kate
KEARNEY's descendants who sell deplorable photographs of themselves and the
huts in which they live, and the miscellaneous crew who look upon every
visitor as the possibility of a copper or a sixpence."

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• [IGW] Circa 1880s Co. Kerry -- Gap of Dunlop -- (KEARNEY, LOVETT) by "Jean Rice" <>